Mercury Outboards Key Switch + 8-Pin Harness Wiring Color Chart When it comes to wiring a boat harness for your 1976 to 2005 Mercury outboard, each wire color serves a specific function that is crucial for the proper operation of your equipment. Key Switch 6 Wires RED Wire is connected to the battery, supplying a 12V+ power source to the system. PURPLE Wire is your key switch turned-on power, providing a 12V+ power supply to various components such as fuel pump and dash lights. BLACK Wire is the ground wire, ensuring a proper ground from the battery to the engine block to the key for operation. YELLOW/BLACK Wire is dedicated to the primer "choke" solenoid, which provides fuel to help cold starting the engine.. YELLOW/RED wire hooks to your starter solenoid to engage the starter, allowing you to start the engine. GRAY Wire serves as the tach lead, providing information on the engine's RPMs (revolutions per minute). BLACK/YELLOW Wire is your kill switch, turns the motor off and enables the lanyard to stops the engine in case of an emergency. 8-Pin Harness 2 Additional Wires TAN/BLUE wire is linked to the temperature gauge, monitoring the temperature of the equipment to prevent overheating. TAN Wire is connected to the warning horn, alerting you to any potential overheating issues that may require you shut the motor off immediately. Trim Wires BLUE Wire(s) is designated for the trim up function, allowing you to adjust the trim of your equipment for optimal performance. GREEN Wire(s) controls the trim down feature, providing you with control over the downward adjustment of the trim. Understanding the purpose of each wire color is essential for rigging, troubleshooting and maintenance.

How to Measure Hydraulic Steering Hoses for your Boat? Instructions to Measure Hydraulic Steering Hoses Follow these simple steps to measure hydraulic hoses for your boat’s steering system, ensuring smooth navigation across the open seas. Below are two methods to measure distances and calculate the line length: Method A: Measure in Three Key Steps Helm to Gunwale:  Measure from the boat wheel’s center at the helm to the gunwale (or deck, if the hose routes downward). Dashboard to Transom:  Measure the distance from the dashboard to the transom at the stern of your boat hull. Gunwale to Cylinder:  Measure from the gunwale to the cylinder’s centerline at the outboard engine tiller. Add 24 inches  to the total hose length to ensure flexibility and maneuverability while steering through coastal waters. Round the final hydraulic hose length up to the next even foot to determine the required steering hose lengths. Method B: The Garden Hose Technique Use a garden hose to trace the exact route from the steering wheel helm to the outboard engine. Measure the hose line length and adjust for slack to account for boat movement and ensure smooth steering in varying sea conditions. Pro Tip for High Performance Riggers Leave enough slack in the hoses to avoid kinks or sharp bends within the hull. When navigating choppy seas, ensure the hoses have enough length to move freely with the outboard engine. Test your setup by turning the tiller from stop to stop along the swivel pin to confirm hassle-free steering during any boat ride. Choose the Right System for Your Needs Whether you're rigging your boat with Seastar , Uflex , or Buckshot Racing #77 Pro USA 350 HP and 700 HP hydraulic steering systems , proper measurements are key to optimal performance on the water. For expert advice, contact mike@buckshotracing77.com  or call 714-697-1716  to discuss the best hydraulic steering system for your boat.

The bleed lines on Mercury V6 2-stroke outboards (150, 175, 200, 225, 245, 260 hp, and Pro Max powerheads) are to pump fuel and oil from reed cages back into cylinders. The lines are connected 180 degrees apart to bleed off pooled oil in the reed cage area.  Bleed lines are important because fuel and oil can puddle in the bottom of the cages and create a rough idle. When replacing bleed lines, you should:  Replace all of the lines Cut the lines from a 10' or 20' roll Follow the specific routing and lengths listed in the OEM Service Manual Make sure all check valves on the bleed lines are functioning properly Replace the lines one at a time Pay attention to the length of the lines, especially any that cross behind the intake manifold If you decide to remove all the bleed hoses, make sure to leave and or replace the lines that lubricant the top cap bearing and center main bearings. Those are crucial to keep your motor from seizing up. Why keep the lines? These are helpful for idling for long periods of time such as trolling, cruising, or going from fishing hole to hole. Why remove the lines? Racers often remove the lines as they might be running wide-opened throttle for periods of time where there is little chance of fuel pooling. Removing the lines reduces the chance of a vacuum leak which could mean out a motor. Important!!! Lines 1, 9 and 10 Any lines going to the center of the powerhead (top - cap bearing, middle - center mains, bottom - ball bearing) are not bleed lines, they are there to lubricate crank bearings. These must be maintained! We carry bleed lines for outboards in Tygon yellow, blue, and red translucent colors. We prefer the translucence lines and more importantly the lubricating lines to ensure you have clear and unblocked passages.