Outboard Racing Hardware – Nylock Nuts, Safety Considerations, and Alternatives In high-performance marine race environments such as tunnel hull racing , outboard drag boats , and F1 powerboat competitions , fastener selection and maintenance are critical to both performance and safety. While nylock nuts  (nylon-insert locknuts) are widely used in recreational and production marine applications, their use in racing should follow proven safety standards—much like those outlined in FAA Advisory Circular 43.13-1B , which provides guidance on acceptable aircraft maintenance practices. These standards, though written for aviation, translate well to high-speed marine environments  where the failure of even a single fastener can be catastrophic. Nylock nuts provide resistance to vibration through a nylon locking insert, but this material is susceptible to heat damage and fatigue. According to FAA guidelines , nylock nuts are not suitable for environments exceeding 250°F (121°C) , and they must be replaced if they no longer offer proper prevailing torque. In racing applications, this becomes especially important in high-temperature areas such as exhaust adapter plates , gearcase carriers , and powerhead mounts . While OEM components  in these zones are typically reused due to their strength and reliability, the fasteners—particularly nylock nuts—should be replaced frequently , especially after removal or multiple heat cycles. Another common issue is thread galling , particularly when using stainless steel nylock nuts on stainless bolts . Galling can cause thread seizure, potentially damaging critical hardware or compromising torque values. To reduce this risk, apply marine-grade anti-seize  sparingly and consider alternatives such as stainless steel lock washers , all-metal lock nuts , or zinc-plated fasteners . In high-load or high-vibration locations —such as jack plates , engine studs , or steering pivot assemblies —more secure mechanical locking methods should be used. These include double nutting , safety wire , and mechanical lock washers  like Nord-Lock or Belleville-style spring washers. Nylock nuts still have their place in non-critical rigging zones  such as cowling fasteners , battery trays , and electrical brackets , where vibration is a factor but safety is not directly at risk. However, in structural or heat-exposed areas , nylocks should be treated as consumable components  and replaced as part of a regular maintenance plan. Just because they “look fine” doesn’t mean they’re safe—especially after being heat-soaked at WOT (wide open throttle) or repeatedly removed during rigging adjustments. Critically, racers should also inspect and service flywheel nuts  and prop nuts  regularly. These fasteners are central to engine timing  and propulsion integrity . A loose flywheel nut can cause major ignition timing failures or crankshaft damage, while a prop nut that backs off could destroy your lower unit or cost you a race. As with aviation practice, torque values should always be followed exactly, and hardware such as lock tabs , cotter pins , or locking collars  should be replaced, not reused. Whether you're dialing in a 2.5L EFI drag motor, an SST-120 tunnel rig, or a Pro Stock setup, treating your hardware with the same respect as your powerhead  can be the difference between finishing first or not finishing at all. Follow FAA-style standards  for heat limits, reuse cycles, torque checks, and safety backups. When you're racing over 100 mph on water , your entire boat is held together by a few dozen fasteners. Make sure they’re the right ones—fresh, secure, and proven to hold running outlaw drag passes at 9,000+ RPMs.

The objective is to measure peak AC voltage (adaptor converts to DC volts) at 6 key points in your Mercury V6 outboard ignition system. Before you begin, ensure you have a strong spark and good compression before proceeding to the Peak Voltage Tests (with the Buckshot Racing #77 DVA Adaptor). Plug the adaptor into your multimeter, set to read over 300 volts DC. When using a DVA (Direct Voltage Adapter) to test ignition components on an outboard motor, always set your multimeter to DC volts , not AC. Although the ignition system produces AC voltage, the DVA converts those fast AC pulses into a steady DC signal representing the peak voltage . Multimeters can’t accurately read those quick AC spikes independently, so the DC setting allows you to see a reliable, peak voltage reading for proper diagnostics. Run tests stationary in a safe place, in the order listed on the chart, with grounds connected. Stay clear of voltage shocks and fuel. Test #1 is key. If you can confirm all cylinders read within the spec above and within a close range of each other while cranking, move to confirm in the same way with the motor running. Typically, we'll see 200 increasing to 220 volts while increasing the RPMs to around 3,500. If you get this far with passing grades, you have confirmed your ignition most likely has no other issues, and it might be time to look elsewhere. Otherwise, continue to tests #2 to #6 until you pinpoint your problem.

Mercury Outboards Key Switch + 8-Pin Harness Wiring Color Chart When it comes to wiring a boat harness for your 1976 to 2005 Mercury outboard, each wire color serves a specific function that is crucial for the proper operation of your equipment. Key Switch 6 Wires RED Wire is connected to the battery, supplying a 12V+ power source to the system. PURPLE Wire is your key switch turned-on power, providing a 12V+ power supply to various components such as fuel pump and dash lights. BLACK Wire is the ground wire, ensuring a proper ground from the battery to the engine block to the key for operation. YELLOW/BLACK Wire is dedicated to the primer "choke" solenoid, which provides fuel to help cold starting the engine.. YELLOW/RED wire hooks to your starter solenoid to engage the starter, allowing you to start the engine. GRAY Wire serves as the tach lead, providing information on the engine's RPMs (revolutions per minute). BLACK/YELLOW Wire is your kill switch, turns the motor off and enables the lanyard to stops the engine in case of an emergency. 8-Pin Harness 2 Additional Wires TAN/BLUE wire is linked to the temperature gauge, monitoring the temperature of the equipment to prevent overheating. TAN Wire is connected to the warning horn, alerting you to any potential overheating issues that may require you shut the motor off immediately. Trim Wires BLUE Wire(s) is designated for the trim up function, allowing you to adjust the trim of your equipment for optimal performance. GREEN Wire(s) controls the trim down feature, providing you with control over the downward adjustment of the trim. Understanding the purpose of each wire color is essential for rigging, troubleshooting and maintenance.

How to Measure Hydraulic Steering Hoses for your Boat? Instructions to Measure Hydraulic Steering Hoses Follow these simple steps to measure hydraulic hoses for your boat’s steering system, ensuring smooth navigation across the open seas. Below are two methods to measure distances and calculate the line length: Method A: Measure in Three Key Steps Helm to Gunwale:  Measure from the boat wheel’s center at the helm to the gunwale (or deck, if the hose routes downward). Dashboard to Transom:  Measure the distance from the dashboard to the transom at the stern of your boat hull. Gunwale to Cylinder:  Measure from the gunwale to the cylinder’s centerline at the outboard engine tiller. Add 24 inches  to the total hose length to ensure flexibility and maneuverability while steering through coastal waters. Round the final hydraulic hose length up to the next even foot to determine the required steering hose lengths. Method B: The Garden Hose Technique Use a garden hose to trace the exact route from the steering wheel helm to the outboard engine. Measure the hose line length and adjust for slack to account for boat movement and ensure smooth steering in varying sea conditions. Pro Tip for High Performance Riggers Leave enough slack in the hoses to avoid kinks or sharp bends within the hull. When navigating choppy seas, ensure the hoses have enough length to move freely with the outboard engine. Test your setup by turning the tiller from stop to stop along the swivel pin to confirm hassle-free steering during any boat ride. Choose the Right System for Your Needs Whether you're rigging your boat with Seastar , Uflex , or Buckshot Racing #77 Pro USA 350 HP and 700 HP hydraulic steering systems , proper measurements are key to optimal performance on the water. For expert advice, contact mike@buckshotracing77.com  or call 714-697-1716  to discuss the best hydraulic steering system for your boat.

The bleed lines on Mercury V6 2-stroke outboards (150, 175, 200, 225, 245, 260 hp, and Pro Max powerheads) are to pump fuel and oil from reed cages back into cylinders. The lines are connected 180 degrees apart to bleed off pooled oil in the reed cage area.  Bleed lines are important because fuel and oil can puddle in the bottom of the cages and create a rough idle. When replacing bleed lines, you should:  Replace all of the lines Cut the lines from a 10' or 20' roll Follow the specific routing and lengths listed in the OEM Service Manual Make sure all check valves on the bleed lines are functioning properly Replace the lines one at a time Pay attention to the length of the lines, especially any that cross behind the intake manifold If you decide to remove all the bleed hoses, make sure to leave and or replace the lines that lubricant the top cap bearing and center main bearings. Those are crucial to keep your motor from seizing up. Why keep the lines? These are helpful for idling for long periods of time such as trolling, cruising, or going from fishing hole to hole. Why remove the lines? Racers often remove the lines as they might be running wide-opened throttle for periods of time where there is little chance of fuel pooling. Removing the lines reduces the chance of a vacuum leak which could mean out a motor. Important!!! Lines 1, 9 and 10 Any lines going to the center of the powerhead (top - cap bearing, middle - center mains, bottom - ball bearing) are not bleed lines, they are there to lubricate crank bearings. These must be maintained! We carry bleed lines for outboards in Tygon yellow, blue, and red translucent colors. We prefer the translucence lines and more importantly the lubricating lines to ensure you have clear and unblocked passages.

Mercury 2-stroke V6 tuner pipe lengths across the 2.0L, 2.4L, and 2.5L outboards (135–300 HP) Unlocking Horsepower with Mercury V6 Tuner Pipe Lengths: 135 to 300+ HP Explained The Mercury V6 two-stroke outboards (2.0L, 2.4L, and 2.5 Liters) are iconic in the performance marine world, powering everything from recreational boats to race-winning machines. These engines produce between 135 HP and over 300 HP depending on the model and tuning. One of the most critical components influencing horsepower is the Mercury V6 tuner pipe length. Understanding and modifying your 2-stroke outboard exhaust tuning can unlock more power and shift your engine's powerband. This guide breaks down how tuner pipe length affects performance, offers real-world tuner length data by model, and explains how to upgrade or modify your exhaust tuner to increase power. If you're looking for a Mercury outboard horsepower upgrade or want to know how to increase horsepower on a Mercury 2.5L, start here. The exhaust tuner on a Mercury V6 is a cast aluminum pipe in the midsection that directs exhaust from the cylinders into the prop hub. It uses exhaust pulse resonance to create a reflected pressure wave that improves scavenging at a specific RPM range. The length of the tuner determines the timing of this wave, influencing whether the engine makes power at low, mid, or high RPM. Shorter tuner pipes favor high RPM horsepower, while longer pipes enhance low-end torque and acceleration. The Mercury V6 engine is made up of two 3-cylinder banks, but both share a single exhaust tuner with two separate internal passages, usually of unequal lengths based on the overall length of the exhaust paths. Mercury used different tuner lengths depending on the model and target horsepower range. Estimated average lengths include: 135 HP (2.0L) with ~14-15” long tuner optimized for torque and midrange; 150 HP (2.0L/2.5L XR6) with ~14” long tuner for detuned performance 150 XR2 (2.0L) with ~8” short tuner as a high-performance variant 175 HP (2.4L/2.5L) with ~10-11” medium tuner focused on midrange 200 HP (2.4L/2.5L) with ~7-8” short tuner for peak horsepower 225 ProMax (2.5L) with ~8-9” short tuner, slightly longer but wider than the 200 HP 240-280 HP racing engines like the Bridgeport/260/280 EFI with ~7-9” short high-performance tuners 300 HP+ drag racing engines (2.5L Drag) with ~5-8” ultra-short or custom-cut tuners for max RPM. Exhaust tuning relies on the timing of pressure waves returning to the cylinder. The goal is to use these waves to prevent unburned fuel from escaping and improve cylinder fill. A basic estimation formula for ideal tuned length is: L = (Exhaust Duration in degrees × 1650) / Target RPM. Since the Mercury V6 tuner is only part of the total exhaust path, practical tuner lengths range from 6” to 15”. The shorter the pipe, the higher the RPM it's tuned for. A long tuner supports hole-shot and low RPM use, while a short tuner supports top-end speed and higher revving. Upgrading your tuner is a smart Mercury outboard horsepower upgrade. Swapping a 150 or 175 HP tuner for a 200/225 HP tuner results in gains in upper RPM and better throttle response. Cutting an existing tuner to match a 200 HP length (~8”) is a cheap and effective modification. Aftermarket tuners like those from Bob’s Machine often mimic 200 HP spec, sometimes with a flared outlet for smoother flow. However, cutting too short or running open exhaust can hurt midrange and idle quality. Tuner mods are best paired with other performance upgrades like heads, reeds, ECU tuning, and increased compression. Short tuners (7-8”) provide high RPM power, are louder, offer less backpressure, and often soften low-end torque. Medium tuners (10-11”) offer balanced midrange performance, making them suitable for versatile applications. Long tuners (14-15”) produce strong low-end torque, are quieter, and limit top-end performance. Selecting the right length depends on your engine build and usage goals. Whether you're running a 135 HP fish motor or a 280 HP race motor, understanding how exhaust tuning works and choosing the right tuner pipe length can make a measurable difference. For performance builds, the tuner should match your target RPM range and intended use and also increase the porting on the intake side of the motor. With smart upgrades, you can extract more performance and keep your Mercury V6 alive and screaming.

How to Clean, Care for, and Maintain Your LIFELINE Comp Vest and Capsule Race Suit If you're a high-performance boater or boat racer, safety and durability are paramount when it comes to your racing gear. The LIFELINE Comp Vest  and LIFELINE Capsule Race Suit  are designed for maximum protection, comfort, and longevity, making them a trusted choice among professional racers. Proper maintenance and cleaning of these essential safety gear will ensure their effectiveness on the water while extending their lifespan. Here’s everything you need to know about keeping your LIFELINE racing life jackets and other safety gear  in peak condition. Cleaning Your LIFELINE Comp Vest and Race Suit 1. DO NOT Machine Wash or Dry Clean The LIFELINE Comp Vest  and Capsule Race Suit  are constructed with specialized high-performance materials, including 1000D Nylon, 600D Polyester, and heavy-duty impact foam . Machine washing or dry cleaning can degrade these materials, reducing their protective capabilities. 2. Send Your Gear to LIFELINE for Professional Cleaning To ensure your racing vest or race suit  maintains its structural integrity, it's highly recommended that you return it to LIFELINE for proper cleaning and recertification . This service ensures that flotation and impact-protection components remain in optimal condition. 3. You CAN Spot Clean and Touch-Up For small stains or dirt buildup, follow these steps: Use a mild soap  (avoid harsh detergents or bleach). Wash with cold water  and a soft brush  to gently scrub dirt away. Rinse thoroughly  with clean water. Allow to air dry completely  before storing—do not use heat to dry. 4. Special Cleaning Instructions for Other LIFELINE Gear Ballistic Shorts (PN-280), Cut-Resistant Suits (PN-300-307), and Socks (PN-310-312)  can be machine-washed on a delicate warm/cold cycle  and then air-dried . Caring for Your LIFELINE Comp Vest and Race Suit 1. Storage Best Practices Keep your gear in a dry, well-ventilated area  away from direct sunlight. Prolonged sun exposure can weaken fabrics and fade colors. Store in a cool, temperature-controlled space  to prevent premature degradation of the flotation and impact-resistant foam. Do not fold or compress your vest or suit excessively, as this can damage the built-in impact materials. 2. Inspect Your Gear Before Every Race Before hitting the water, take a moment to inspect your LIFELINE Comp Vest  and Capsule Race Suit  for: Visible wear and tear  such as rips, fraying, or weakened stitching. Compromised flotation or padding —if the vest or suit feels less supportive, it may need professional evaluation. Zippers and buckles —ensure all closures are functional and secure before use. 3. Avoid Harsh Chemicals and Substances Keep gasoline, oil, and solvents  away from your vest and suit, as these substances can deteriorate the fabric and flotation materials. If exposed to saltwater , rinse thoroughly with fresh water after each use to prevent material breakdown. Maintaining Performance and Safety on the Water As trusted gear for top-tier boat racing events—including APBA, UIM, SODA, ODBA, DSRA, SCSC and the Parker Enduro —your LIFELINE safety equipment  is designed for intense conditions. However, routine maintenance ensures maximum flotation, impact protection, and comfort  while keeping you compliant with racing association regulations. By following these cleaning, care, and maintenance tips , your LIFELINE Comp Vest  and Capsule Race Suit  will remain in excellent condition, providing safety and performance whenever you need it. Stay safe, stay fast, and trust LIFELINE—proudly made in the USA! For professional cleaning or technical support, contact Mike Hill at +1-714-697-1716  or email mike@buckshotracing77.com

A prop slip speed calculator  is a valuable tool for high-performance boaters and boat racers looking to optimize their vessel’s speed, efficiency, and overall performance. Welcome to Buckshot Racing #77 free online Prop Slip Speed Calculator! This tool helps you estimate the speed of your boat based on engine RPM, propeller pitch, and gear ratio, taking into account a 10% prop slip. It's a quick and easy way to calculate your boat's expected performance with a change in the propeller. How to use the Prop Slip Speed Calculator? Engine RPM: Enter the engine’s revolutions per minute (RPM). This is the speed at which your engine is turning. Propeller Pitch: Input the pitch of your propeller in inches. This is the distance the propeller would move forward in one full rotation, assuming no slippage. Gear Ratio: Enter the gear ratio between your engine and propeller. This is the ratio of how many engine turns it takes to rotate the propeller once. Once you’ve entered all values, click the "Calculate Speed" button to see the estimated speed with a 10% slip factor. The result will be displayed in miles per hour (mph). Change your variables to learn how different pitch props will run with different lower unit gear ratios, turning different rpms. Our was design to be particularly simple and user-friendly, allowing high-performance boaters the ability to quickly input values and get accurate results. It simplifies the process, making it accessible for both seasoned racers and newcomers. By routinely using a prop slip calculator , racers can refine their setup for maximum speed, better fuel efficiency, and enhanced handling , ultimately leading to better results on the water.

SeaStar Solutions offers a comprehensive range of hydraulic steering systems tailored for various boating and marine applications, each comprising specific components with unique part numbers. We provide this as reference for those who are upgrading to our complete 350 HP Hydraulic Steering Systems, 700 HP Hydraulic Steering Systems, custom length steering hose lines, our faster 2.7 Helm, or 700 HP Front Cylinder or use our Self-Bleeding Kit (for one-person operation). We've made sure all our steering parts are compatible and interchanging with Sea Star to ensure the we can cost effectively solve our customer rigging needs. Below is an organized overview of key boat hydraulic steering parts and their associated part numbers: 1. Helm Pumps: SeaStar 1.7 Front Mount Helm: HH5271-3 SeaStar 2.0 Front Mount Helm: HH5273-3 SeaStar 2.4 Front Mount Helm: HH5272-3 SeaStar 1.7 Rear Mount Helm: HH5261-3 SeaStar 2.4 Rear Mount Helm: HH5262-3 SeaStar 1.7 Sport Tilt Helm: HH5291-3 SeaStar 2.4 Sport Tilt Helm: HH5292-3 SeaStar 1.7 Classic Tilt Helm: HH5741-3 SeaStar 2.4 Classic Tilt Helm: HH5742-3 SeaStar Pro Helms: SeaStar Pro 1.7 Standard Mount: HH5779-3 SeaStar Pro 1.7 Rear Mount: HH5778-3 SeaStar Pro 1.7 Tilt: HH5773-3 SeaStar Pro 2.0 Standard Mount: HH5770-3 SeaStar Pro 2.0 Rear Mount: HH5771-3 SeaStar Pro 2.0 Tilt: HH5774-3 SeaStar Pro 2.0 Sport Tilt: HH5290-3 SeaStar Pro 2.4 Standard Mount: HH5772-3 2. Steering Cylinders: Front Mount Cylinders: HC5340-3, HC5342-3, HC5345-3, HC5347-3, HC5348-3, HC5358-3 Side Mount Cylinder: HC5370-3 Splashwell Mount Cylinder: HC5380 Catamaran/Pontoon Cylinder: HC5375-3 Inboard Cylinders: HC5312-3, HC5313-3, HC5314-3, HC5318, HC5319 3. Hose Kits: SeaStar Hose Kit (2 hoses): HO51xx SeaStar Bulkhead Hose Kit (2 hoses): HO81xx 4. Fitting Kits: Add-A-Station Kit (Nylon/Copper Tube): HF6010 Add-A-Station Kit (Hose): HF6007 Autopilot Fitting Kit (For All Helms): HF5502 5. Tubing: 3/8” Diameter Nylon Tubing: HT5xxx 6. Steering Fluid: SeaStar Oil (1 Quart): HA5430 SeaStar Oil (1 Gallon): HA5440 7. Service Items: Helm Shaft Seal and Locknut Kit: HP6032 Steering Wheel Hardware Kit: SA27454P 8. Optional Equipment: SeaStar Round Bezel Kit: HA5478 SeaStar Backplate Kit: HA5418 SeaStar 20° Dash Wedge Kit: HA5419 Power Assist Steering: PA1200-2 *Note: The 'xx' in part numbers (e.g., HO51xx) denotes variable lengths or specific configurations. It's essential to select the appropriate specifications based on your boat's requirements. By utilizing the correct part numbers, you can ensure compatibility and optimal performance of your SeaStar steering system.

Rebuild and Repair your SeaStar or Pro Hydraulic Steering Cylinder To rebuild or repair a SeaStar hydraulic steering cylinder , begin by securing a clean, debris-free workspace  to prevent contamination. First, disconnect the hydraulic lines  and drain any remaining hydraulic fluid  into a suitable container. Carefully remove the cylinder from the steering system , ensuring you do not damage any connected components. Use the appropriate tools to disassemble the cylinder , including removing the end caps, retaining clips, seals, O-rings, and the piston rod . Thoroughly inspect all internal components  for signs of wear, corrosion, or damage, particularly the seals and hydraulic shaft . If the piston rod is worn, bent, pitted, or the center seal gland and O-ring are crushed or flattened, replace the entire piston rod with the complete rod available from Buckshot Racing #77 . Clean all parts with a non-corrosive solvent  and replace any worn or damaged seals, O-rings (for your cylinder) and seal gland bushings  included our Buckshot Racing #77 SeaStar hydraulic seal kit  to ensure optimal performance. Lubricate all new seals with marine-grade hydraulic grease  before carefully reassembling the cylinder , ensuring proper alignment of the piston and rod. Securely reinstall the end caps and retaining clips , and torque all fasteners to manufacturer specifications . Reconnect the hydraulic lines and refill the system with SeaStar hydraulic steering fluid , then perform a bleeding process  to remove any air from the system. Finally, test the rebuilt SeaStar steering cylinder  by checking for smooth operation and leaks under pressure. If everything functions correctly, reinstall the cylinder onto your boat’s hydraulic steering system  and ensure proper steering response before heading out on the water. This Replacement Parts Rebuild Kit is compatible with Multiple Sea Star Marine Hydraulic Steering Systems including Part Numbers: HC5345, HC5347, HC5348, HC5358, HC5445, HC6345, HC6750, HC6751, HC6752, HC6753, HC6754, HC6755, HS5167

Best Race Fuels for Outboard Boat Racing: 2-Strokes and 4-Strokes Outboard boat racing is a high-performance sport that demands the best fuel for maximum power, efficiency, and engine protection. Whether running a high-RPM 2-stroke carbureted outboard, an EFI or DFI direct-injected motor, or a modern high-performance 4-stroke like the Mercury R-Series, APX or Yamaha SHO VMAX, choosing the right race fuel is critical for achieving peak performance. This article provides general guidance based on experience and observations, helping you determine the best fuel as a starting point for your unique application. Understanding Fuel Requirements for Outboard Racing 2-stroke and 4-stroke engines have different fuel requirements. Carbureted and EFI 2-stroke motors, like the Mercury 2.5L and OMC Looper, require high-octane, leaded fuels for optimal combustion and can benefit from oxygenated fuels for added power. Direct fuel-injected (DFI) motors, such as Mercury Optimax and Yamaha HPDI, perform best with clean-burning, oxygenated fuels that are safe for fuel injectors and won’t clog DFI systems. Modern 4-stroke EFI motors, including the Mercury 250R, 300R, and Yamaha SHO VMAX, perform best on unleaded high-octane fuels, with oxygenated race fuels or E85 blends providing additional power when properly tuned. Best Race Fuels for Outboard Racing VP Racing Fuels is considered the best or top overall most popular race fuel, offering options like VP C12 for 2-stroke carbureted and EFI motors, VP C16 for high-compression setups, and VP MS109 for EFI/DFI and high-performance 4-strokes. VP X85 (E85) is also an excellent choice for Mercury and Yamaha 4-strokes when tuning allows. Sunoco Race Fuels is best for offshore and endurance racing, with options like Sunoco Supreme 112 for 2-stroke applications and Sunoco 260 GT for 4-stroke EFI motors. CAM2 110 Octane for 2-stroke carbureted outboards  (Mercury SST-120 2.0 Liter, SST-140 2.4 Liter, 2.5L, OMC Looper). Renegade Race Fuels is ideal for EFI and DFI performance, with Renegade K-16 and RM109 providing increased power output while maintaining fuel system cleanliness. Torco Race Fuels is a great choice for octane boosting and unleaded performance, particularly for 4-stroke EFI applications, and can be mixed with pump gas for cost-effectiveness. ETS Racing Fuels specializes in European circuit and hydroplane racing, offering ultra-pure oxygenated race fuels like ETS Extra Max and P14. Rockett Brand Racing Fuel is a top choice for classic 2-stroke outboards, particularly those needing leaded high-octane fuel. Klotz and Powermist cater to specialty racing applications, including stock and mod hydroplanes and drag boat racing. Tuning Tips for Race Fuels Using race fuels requires tuning adjustments for optimal performance. Carbureted 2-stroke engines should increase jetting by 2-4% when using oxygenated fuels, while EFI and DFI motors may require fuel pressure and injector scaling adjustments. 4-stroke EFI engines benefit from ECU tuning when using unleaded race fuels or E85 blends. High-compression engines require high-octane fuels like VP C16, Sunoco Supreme 112, or Rockett 118 to prevent detonation. Conclusion Choosing the right race fuel depends on your outboard type, compression ratio, and tuning capabilities. VP Racing Fuels remains the top choice for overall performance, while Sunoco is preferred for endurance racing, and Renegade excels in EFI and DFI applications. Understanding how fuel affects tuning and performance is crucial for competitive success. Boat racers looking to maximize horsepower can consider options like VP MS109, Renegade K-16, and Sunoco Supreme 112 to achieve the best blend of power, consistency, and engine protection. With the right fuel and proper tuning, your outboard will perform at its peak in every race.

Slosh Tubes in Mercury Racing WH Race Carburetors: Function & Installation Guide In tunnel boat racing, outboard drag racing, and high-performance offshore marine racing , fuel stability  is essential for consistent power delivery. Mercury Racing WH-series carburetors , such as the WH-46 (SST-120, 2.0 Liter), WH-31 (SST-140, 2.4 Liter), and WH-46 or WH-22 (XR2, 2.0 ROS Liter) , are subjected to extreme fuel movement due to rapid acceleration, deceleration, and aggressive cornering. Without slosh tubes , fuel inside the carburetor float bowls  can shift uncontrollably, leading to fuel starvation, air bubble formation (aeration), and erratic throttle response . When fuel moves away from the jets, the engine experiences lean conditions, misfires, and power loss . Slosh tubes help maintain a steady air/fuel mixture  by directing fuel flow within the float bowl, preventing fuel surge  and ensuring smooth performance under extreme racing conditions. For racers competing in Mercury Racing 2.0 Liter, 2.4 Liter, and 2.5 Liter  classes, nickel-plated brass elbow fittings by Buckshot Racing #77, replacing Mercury OEM 94090,  are essential for proper slosh tube function. These fittings require a secure press fit  into the carburetor body. Our elbow fittings are ~.060" , 1-2 thousandths oversized compared to old OEM 22-94090 , ensuring a tight, reliable fit  for extreme racing conditions. The proper drill size  depends on the material. In aluminum carburetors , a #53 drill bit (0.0595")  or 1.50 mm (0.0591")  provides a light press fit , while a 1.45 mm (0.0571")  drill bit ensures a tighter press fit . For steel components , a 0.058"-0.0585" hole  offers a secure fit  without excessive force. If a hole is too loose , JB Weld or high-strength retaining compound  can restore a tight, leak-free seal . Proper slosh tube placement  is key to ensuring effective fuel control in Mercury Racing WH carburetors . The elbow fittings  should be pressed into the upper vent passages of the float bowl , specifically into the vent hole near the top of the carburetor , aligning to channel fuel movement efficiently . A Tygon F-4040-A type fuel bleed line  should be routed from the elbow fitting to the float bowl, helping prevent sudden fuel displacement during tunnel boat racing or outboard drag racing . Ensuring precise press fit and correct placement  stabilizes fuel levels, enhances throttle response , and eliminates power loss  caused by fuel movement. By installing slosh tubes correctly, racers can optimize the performance and reliability of their Mercury Racing 2.0L, 2.4L, and 2.5L WH-series carburetors , making them an essential upgrade for high-performance outboard racing applications .